“And
The King’s Voice Was Heard In Jerusalem”
Adapted
by Rabbi Shalom Yaakov Chazan and A. Avrohom
The
Rebbe Rayatz’s account of his visit to the Holy Land chronicling
his first three days in Jerusalem. * The highlight of the trip: a
maamer delivered from the roof of the Amdursky Hotel before a
crowd of thousands. * The Rebbe’s visit to the Kosel “left an
impression that can never be erased.” * The Rebbe Rayatz
describes his emotions standing before the place of the Beis
HaMikdash.
B”H
Beis Menachem Av, 5689 [Aug. 2, 1929]
Yerushalayim
Yesterday,
the 1st of Av, we left Alexandria at 3:00 p.m. Bey Fitzata
[Senator Yosef Di-Figoto Bey], HaRav HaChacham HaGaon Nadler and a
few others came with us to the train station. By 5:30 we had
reached the Bena station, where we waited an hour before changing
trains.
As
the train pulled in, a special delegation arrived from the Cairo
Ashkenazi community (a shochet and three baalei battim)
to extend its blessing and an invitation to visit. There was a
huge crowd waiting for us at the station, bli ayin hara, as
they had known in advance that we were coming.
Around
9:30 p.m., we reached the border station of Kantara on the English
Canal [the Suez Canal]. An officer and two soldiers asked to see
Rabbi Schneersohn. The officer saluted, relaying an order from the
government to personally greet the great rabbi and ferry him
across the canal separately from the other passengers. He also
asked for our luggage (which would not be opened), and promised
that it would be transferred to our train compartment. The train
would be leaving in two hours. We could board immediately if we
wished, but everyone else would have to wait another hour and a
half. The officer then ordered a sailor to transfer all our things
by boat and load them onto the train.
The
fact that a special governmental order had been issued to
transport our group made a great impression on everyone. Mr.
Mendel Schneersohn (from Warsaw), who was with us on the boat to
Alexandria, accompanied us this time, too. He said he was very
happy.
At
12:00 a.m., we left Kantara for Jerusalem, and at 5:00 a.m. we had
a stopover in Lod. [As will be described later, the Rebbe actually
arrived in Rechovot at 5:00, and slightly later in Lod.]
At
4:00 a.m., I woke up to daven. By 5:00 we could faintly
hear the rumblings of a large crowd; I assumed they had come to
welcome us, but I remained in my compartment.
At
5:30, I opened the door and was told that a special delegation of
about 100 people representing several cities had arrived: Jaffa,
Tel Aviv, Petach Tikva, Tzefat, and some moshavim. Others
were waiting at the train stations along the route, and in Lod
itself several hundred more had gathered. In Lod we would change
trains and continue traveling in a first-class compartment.
At
6:10 we arrived in Lod, but I wasn’t permitted to debark until a
semblance of order was imposed. It was extremely noisy. The train
platform was completely filled with people, bli ayin hara.
I waited 15 minutes to step off the train, whereupon a ring of
people and Jewish soldiers surrounded me. It took about six
minutes to walk from the first train to the second; the second was
much nicer, with first-class accommodations.
That
train left Lod at 6:20 and arrived in Jerusalem at 8:30. For the
first half-hour I sat alone in my compartment, then I met with the
various representatives who had come to see me. This filled an
hour and five minutes. At around 8:00 we pulled into a station
that was only about a half-hour from Jerusalem [Betar], where a
delegation representing several rabbanim was waiting. I was
presented with letters from HaRav Kook, Rabbi Sonnenfeld, and
Rabbi Yaakov Meir (who sent me his “honor guard” consisting of
his mazkir and two uniformed aides, complete with weapons
and silver batons). It was a great honor. Nonetheless, for someone
who is unaccustomed to such a spectacle, it produces a feeling of
discomfort. This honor guard would later accompany us to the
hotel, perched on the car’s running boards. In the meantime,
they waited outside my door.
The
train was absolutely packed, as my visit is the day’s top news
item. May HaKadosh Boruch Hu make it successful in every
way.
At
8:30, I changed into a different sirtuk. I was about to see
Jerusalem, and would have to tear kriya. I wore my silk sirtuk.
Amidst
all the confusion, a piece of luggage was lost. All things
considered, it was a miracle that only one was misplaced. As soon
as we realized it, we sent off a telegram, and we hope the package
will be recovered.
At
8:30, we arrived at the Jerusalem station. Bli ayin hara,
such a large crowd was waiting! So many different types of people:
old men dressed in silk with velvet hats, younger ones in white
suits and hats, with yarmulkes and caps, red hats and
hatless. Apologetically, they asked me to remain on board until I
got the all-clear. Someone opened a window, and I was asked to bentch
the crowd. When I looked out the window I saw a wall of British
policemen, some on horseback. (This was on the train platform.) Bli
ayin hara, it was such varied assemblage of men, women, and
children.
Thunderous
applause and wild cheering erupted when I appeared at the window.
It was so fervent that it hurt my heart. This lasted for about two
minutes, then all was quiet. I said from the window, “Shalom
aleichem,” and an earsplitting shout of “Aleichem
shalom” and “Baruch ha’ba” rose up in response.
Again there was rustling for a few minutes until the noise
settled. Then the silence was pierced by the cry of, “Boruch
Ata...she’hechenayu v’kiymanu, etc.”
I
returned to my train compartment. A few minutes later the station
director and the chief of police came to extend their official
greetings.
At
8:45, I stepped off the train. As soon as I appeared at the door
there was more cheering and cries of “hooray.” After I
delivered a few words of blessing, the police led me over to a
prearranged area to meet with dignitaries. This took ten minutes.
Then, still under police guard, I walked to the front of the
station where a car was waiting with my son-in-law, R’ Shmaryahu.
The two men with their batons were positioned on the running
boards. A huge crowd walked along with us on foot. It seemed as if
the whole city was in an uproar.
The
whole way to the hotel, the streets were lined with groups of
well-wishers shouting “Shalom aleichem.”
So
many security precautions had been taken at the Amdursky Hotel
that it was not easy for us to get inside. Within a half-hour of
our arrival some 500-600 people (maybe more) were milling about,
requesting that I come out onto the balcony. I sent word that I
would do so in a few minutes. By then, the crowd had doubled in
size. When I stepped outside, the air immediately filled with the
echoes of “Boruch ha’ba,” “Shalom aleichem”
and “She’hecheyanu,” then all was quiet. I said a few
words — that I accepted each greeting of “Shalom aleichem”
and answered each person “Aleichem shalom”
individually, and apologized for not being able to stay out longer
because I was simply too tired. A roar of “Toda u’vracha”
rose up from the throng, accompanied by applause. I could still
hear it when I got back to my room.
At
11:00, the elderly Rabbi Sonnenfeld came to visit. His personal
visit was a great honor, as he had already sent a representative.
He sat with me for a few minutes and then left.
Word
came that HaRav Kook and Rabbi Yaakov Meir were going to arrive
together at 2:00 p.m., but this was only unofficial.
Those
who are familiar with the Jerusalem mentality say that this is the
first time they have ever witnessed such a heartfelt reception.
All
of the newspapers representing all of the different political
parties —even Labor — have printed greetings, as have many mosdos
and institutions.
I
rested until 2:00, then received prominent visitors between 2:00
and 4:00.
At
4:00, we went to daven Mincha at the Kosel Maaravi.
One can travel only up until a certain point, after which it is
necessary to continue by foot. Despite the fact that no one knew
our plans in advance, there were several hundred people
accompanying us, under police guard.
The
visit to the Kosel made a very deep impression on me. The Mincha
service warmed me as if it were Erev Yom Kippur; truly a great
impression. As it turned out, a warmhearted Chassidic Jew led the davening
with a sincere and heartfelt voice. He davened word for
word, with a melody that perfectly matched the vicissitudes of the
soul. The entire square was filled with people davening Mincha.
They estimated a crowd of at least 1,500, not counting the
hundreds who stood on the roofs of nearby houses. The mighty sound
of so many prayers pouring forth touched me deeply, till I went
out of the realm of keilim (literally, vessels; i.e.,
rational experience). An enormous wail rose upward, bathing the
heart in hot tears. Hundreds of people were weeping aloud. It was
as if everyone had been transported to a higher realm.
After
Mincha I recited Tehillim. They brought me chair to sit on,
as by then I did not have the strength to stand. My torn silken sirtuk,
rachmana litzlan, together with the spiritual elevation of
the crowd, created a truly awesome atmosphere. Everyone was saying
Tehillim.
In
the short time I was at the Kosel, word of my arrival had
spread. More people came running over, only to be stopped by
mounted police who blocked their way. Some people had already been
injured in the terrible crush, and their cries were audible. No
one could remember there ever being such a crowd at the Kosel
Maaravi, bli ayin hara.
We
were there until 6:30 p.m., after which I paid a reciprocal visit
to Rabbi Sonnenfeld, who welcomed me with a large retinue. I sat
with him for ten minutes, then went back to the hotel.
On
Friday, at 2:00 p.m., I visited HaRav Kook for 15 minutes. Then I
visited Rabbi Yaakov Meir for ten minutes. At 2:45 I returned to
the hotel. Telegrams were arriving from all over Eretz Yisroel,
each conveying blessings and an invitation to visit that
particular part of the country.
At
4:00, I went to the mikva. Wherever I go, huge crowds greet
me. I am told that my visit has created much joy among all types
of Jews.
The
suitcase from Alexandria is missing, so we are without Shabbos
clothes. I had to buy a new streimel and have my old
Shabbos clothing altered...
The
hotel is very big. I have a room, a balcony, a small sitting room
to receive guests, a large parlor, and a waiting room. The large
parlor was completely filled for Kabalas Shabbos; they had
to open the door to the smaller sitting room (where I davened)
to accommodate everyone.
Kabalas
Shabbos lasted an hour and quarter. Boruch Hashem, it
appears as if many people are drawing nearer. For Shabbos,
approximately 70 minyanim arrived from the surrounding
neighborhoods.
They
daven very early here, on Shabbos at 7:00 o’clock in the
morning, but I indicated that they should start at 8:30. The roof
of the hotel was prepared for my saying Chassidus. There is a very
wide area on the rooftops, where people can stroll about; I’ve
been told that it can accommodate 2,000 people.
The
[Friday night] Shabbos seuda was eaten at 9:00 p.m., with
my son-in-law and our friend, Reb Alter Simchavitch. The wine was
made by one of our own, and it was very good. The meal lasted
about an hour.
I
thought I might say some Chassidus I brought from home, but when I
saw the huge crowd awaiting me (bli ayin hara) I realized
that I would have to change my plans. Starting after nightfall, I
worked on preparing the maamer until 12:00 a.m. Then I lay
down to rest, and slept until 4:00 a.m.
At
4:00, it was back to working on the maamer. By 9:30, I had
completed about three-fourths of it.
At
9:00, a small minyan assembled to daven. The large
parlor was filled to bursting, bli ayin hara. I was told
that there were hundreds of people. They finished davening
around 12:00 p.m.
I
davened in my room and finished the Chassidus by 3:00 p.m.
Then I went to make Kiddush and eat the Shabbos seuda.
The seuda took about an hour and a quarter, after which I
went back to review the maamer.
At
5:30, they davened Mincha, and at 6:10 I was ready
to say Chassidus. I was informed that the roof was filled with
people, bli ayin hara, and that it was very crowded. Even
the surrounding roofs were packed; I should speak in a loud voice
so that everyone could hear me. For a moment I could rejoice in
the Chassidus that HaKadosh Boruch Hu has granted me; may
He give me the strength to deliver it properly, that it have the
desired effect and leave the right impression.
For
the first few minutes it was difficult to maintain order, but
eventually the pushing and talking aloud stopped. I began to
speak, with everyone listening attentively and with great
interest, Boruch Hashem.
I
spoke for an hour and three-quarters, after which we sang “Dem
Emes’n Niggun.” There was happiness in the streets. People
wanted to dance but there wasn’t enough room.
Eight-thirty
was Maariv, after which I made Havdala by myself.